Chinese-style costumes show off the cultural expression of “Generation Z” (Cultural China Tour)

The rich tapestry of Chinese civilization, spanning over five thousand years, has gifted humanity with a myriad of cultural treasures, fueling a continuous drive for cultural innovation. In recent years, traditional Chinese culture has gained global popularity—whether through the booming interest in Hanfu (traditional clothing), national-style dance and music, or through the rising phenomena of online literature, web series, and video games dubbed “new three samples” of cultural exports. Today, our publication launches a special report series titled “A New Kind of Elegance: Chinese Style,” focusing on the recent waves of Chinese culture emerging both domestically and internationally, showcasing its charm, elegance, and spirit.

In recent years, traditional garments like the “Mamen skirt,” “Beizi,” and “Baidie skirt” have been embraced by many young people as fashionable items. These garments are no longer limited to occasions such as photo opportunities during travel, weddings, or gatherings; they have now found a place in everyday activities like shopping and commuting. This shift has not only led to a surge in the market for traditional clothing but also sparked events such as Chinese Hanfu Day and various fashion culture festivals across the country, revitalizing a fashion culture with millennia of history.

A significant driving force behind the resurgence of traditional attire is the “Gen Z” demographic, born between 1995 and 2009. Their love for tradition, combined with a refreshing embrace of it, highlights the confidence and openness of the younger Chinese generation.

Stepping into a Hanfu makeup studio near Yannan Road in Xi’an, Zhang Jing, a young woman from Shijiazhuang, awaits her transformation from a city office worker to a “Tang Dynasty princess.” After her makeover, she plans to visit the vibrant Tang Paradise theme park, embarking on a journey back in time.

As a member of the post-95 generation, Zhang often participates in Hanfu-themed events with her university friends. To her, Hanfu symbolizes not just history and culture but also modern fashion. The Mamen skirt, particularly popular now, has prompted her to purchase two elegant black versions, which she finds simple and appropriate for work. After watching the show “Tang Palace Night Banquet” in 2021, she’s been eagerly planning her visit to Xi’an to don a full Tang outfit and immerse herself in the splendor of that era.

Upon entering the Hanfu studio, Zhang feels as though she has stepped back in time. The shop primarily features Tang-style Hanfu, along with some from the Song and Ming Dynasties. “The craftsmanship, the cut, the colors, and the makeup that comes with wearing Hanfu are all deeply infused with cultural significance. Wearing these clothes is akin to adorning oneself with traditional culture,” the shop owner, Shuang Shuang, explains.

A fellow member of Generation Z and a former kindergarten teacher, Shuang Shuang became captivated by Hanfu after a chance encounter. “The more I learned about Hanfu, the more I appreciated the richness of its cultural heritage,” she states, mentioning her extensive reading on traditional clothing and her visits to museums to deepen her knowledge.

Bian Xiangyang, Vice President of the China Garment Designers Association, underscores the importance of clothing as a key component of material culture and a vivid representation of social culture throughout China’s history. He notes how the traditional clothing culture has evolved from the simplicity of the Qin and Han Dynasties to the luxurious elegance of the Tang Dynasty, shaping a rich and diverse attire culture.

Prof. Han Dan from Northeast Normal University has been observing the “Hanfu phenomenon” and describes Hanfu as a general term for traditional Chinese clothing. She highlights 2003 as a pivotal year for its resurgence—when a power worker donned Hanfu on the streets of Zhengzhou, inspiring a growing community of enthusiasts and researchers.

“This revival of interest in Hanfu is fueled by China’s rapid economic growth, which has enriched both material and spiritual civilization, as well as government initiatives to promote traditional culture. Growing up during China’s ‘enrichment’ and ‘strengthening’ phases, Gen Z has developed a strong affection for traditional culture,” Han explains.

Seeing the potential in the Hanfu trend, Shuang Shuang decided to open her shop. During this year’s National Day holiday, the number of people wanting to experience Hanfu surged. With a keen eye on the door, she swiftly tidies the makeup station, anticipating a busy afternoon where customers generally take about an hour from selection to exit.

After her transformation, Zhang is taken aback by her own reflection as a princess, initially worried about being too “eye-catching.” However, this concern quickly dissipates as she steps outside, crossing paths with others dressed similarly. The stunning traditional garments harmonize perfectly with Xi’an’s ancient architecture, creating an enchanting scene reminiscent of centuries gone by.

In an article by American VOGUE magazine, the current Hanfu craze is described as a movement led by fashion-aware youth. Professor Cui Wei from Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology believes that the profound culture inherent in traditional attire resonates with young people’s desire for authenticity while also meeting their pursuit of new aesthetics and styles.

“Chinese traditional clothing is rich in history and order, intricately woven with deep cultural meaning and aesthetic spirit. Wearing traditional attire not only reflects cultural confidence but also expresses unique qualities inherent to Chinese identity,” Cui comments.

The Mamen skirt, a particularly distinctive and appealing piece of traditional attire, has seen an 841% year-on-year increase in orders, according to a 2024 report on female consumer trends from Douyin, China’s TikTok.

Despite being around for years, the surge in popularity of the Mamen skirt over the past two years can be attributed to the media’s strong promotion of traditional culture and successful adaptations that make these garments more fashionable and accessible. Dai Yucheng, a teacher from the Continuing Education College at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, notes that traditional attire is more popular than ever, thanks to enhancements in craftsmanship and affordability.

Dai also observes that young enthusiasts tend to have distinct ideas about their choices in clothing styles, often creating and customizing outfits to express their understanding of fashion, culture, and tradition—characteristics that reflect the diverse and individualistic tendencies of Gen Z.

In this sense, Gen Z not only sustains traditional fashion but also innovates within it, inspiring designers to draw from traditional clothing for new ideas. Following a piece of the Mamen skirt that gained significant online fame, many retailers rushed to produce similar styles, and wearing this skirt while visiting major cultural sites has become a trendy activity among young people.

Since 2018, the China Silk Museum has hosted the “National Silk Hanfu Festival,” attracting many Hanfu lovers and vendors. Participants appreciate the ancient garments on display while drawing inspiration for their designs.

The April event of this year’s festival focused on themes of “ancient charm” and “new trends,” incorporating Hanfu fashion shows that blend traditional styles with contemporary fashion, showcasing the limitless potential of cultural attire.

As an integral part of China’s rich cultural heritage, traditional clothing embodies the philosophies, aesthetics, and lifestyles of the Chinese people, while also extending its influence into literature, music, and other art forms.

Through this bridge of traditional attire, an increasing number of young people are discovering and falling in love with the aesthetics of Chinese culture.

In April, the Huazhang Hanfu Association at Beijing Normal University organized two rounds of “Hanfu Transformation” events, selecting participants from a pool of students sharing their stories on social media. One lucky master’s student, Yang Shiyu, donned a Tang-era attire for a photoshoot that garnered interest in traditional clothing and its beauty.

Founded in 2011, the Huazhang Hanfu Association has attracted Hanfu enthusiasts from among the students at Beijing Normal University, with 94 members currently registered. The current president, Zhang Runyao, shared that the organization includes five interest groups covering research on Hanfu styles, classical music and dance, and traditional craftsmanship.

“We often collaborate with on-campus groups to host cultural events that merge Hanfu displays with guqin music, tea arts, and poetry readings. These events have garnered strong interest among students and foreign exchange students,” Zhang adds, highlighting how Hanfu enthusiasts are deeply passionate about traditional Chinese culture.

“Donning traditional attire often accompanies learning about ancient customs and etiquette, allowing youths to engage deeply with the richness of Chinese culture,” Han states.

In June, Dai and her colleagues visited a community in Chaoyang District, creatively explaining the evolution of traditional clothing to children, helping them appreciate the aesthetics and wisdom behind ancient apparel. Since 2017, under the guidance of Professor Jiang Jinrui at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, they have focused on cultivating professionals in traditional attire and promoting cultural education, hoping to plant seeds of traditional culture in the hearts of children through these events.