Asian girl Ai Tong’s unexpected life of wine

Aitown’s journey into the world of winemaking began with a hint of curiosity and has since transformed into a full-fledged commitment to the industry. She may very well be one of the youngest winery owners you’ve encountered. Growing up in a family involved in the wine import and export business, Aitown was immersed in the world of fine wines from an early age, though she didn’t fully grasp it at the time. Her traditional parents had higher expectations for her older brother, who is seven years her senior, leaving Aitown with little pressure to follow in their footsteps.

Even during her first two years studying viticulture and enology at UC Davis, Aitown struggled to envision a future in wine. It wasn’t until a classroom discussion about taste buds—how they vary among individuals and that more taste buds correlate with greater sensitivity to flavors—that her perspective shifted. The professor explained that among all ethnic groups, Asian individuals, particularly Asian women, possess a particularly rich palate.

This revelation sparked Aitown’s passion for wine, leading her to fully immerse herself in the industry. Starting in her junior year, she interned at a family-owned winery located at the intersection of Napa and Sonoma, one of the pioneering wineries utilizing wind power for sustainable wine production.

During her time there, Aitown participated in every aspect of winemaking—from grape harvesting, fermentation, and pressing to barrel aging, secondary fermentation, blending, and bottling. Juggling her internship six days a week, she managed to attend mandatory lab classes at school and kept up with her coursework remotely. She absorbed everything about winemaking like a sponge, sharing ideas with fellow interns from Europe and Australia, and notably, she was the only Asian female in the group.

In subsequent vintages, Aitown expanded her experience by working at larger wineries in Napa Valley and even traveling to Australia for internships. These diverse experiences allowed her to deepen her understanding of wine and recognize that exceptional wines don’t just happen; they require meticulous management and quality control.

At some of Napa Valley’s top wineries, she witnessed premium grapes being carefully sorted by variety, origin, and even specific vineyards. Winemakers conducted various comparisons, blending trials, and experiments to determine the perfect combinations for their final products. The entire process left her in awe and cemented her appreciation for the craftsmanship behind wines that command hundreds of dollars per bottle.

After graduating, Aitown landed a job at a large custom winemaking facility in Napa, where she was responsible for monitoring the winemaking process using precise experimental data. It wasn’t long before she received an offer to work in a prominent winery, where she could apply the management skills she had gained at Beringer Vineyards. Through monitoring, tasting, and data analysis, she was able to provide professional insights that helped ensure the quality of the wines produced.

However, as she gained recognition in the industry and received multiple offers to work as a winemaker, her brother made the unexpected decision to sell the family winery that he had long entrusted to others. Deeply attached to the winery, Aitown contemplated her options and ultimately decided to embark on her entrepreneurial journey, fully aware of the challenges that lie ahead.

Fortunately, by this point, Aitown had amassed considerable experience in winemaking and management, and she had established a network of professional contacts in the industry who were willing to support her.

Yet, her first year of running the winery coincided with a significant drought in the region. The estate relied on nearby spring water for irrigation, but shortages became critical. In response, the government offered supplemental irrigation services to help the winemaking industry. After careful consideration, she boldly opted for dry farming, using limited spring water to partially irrigate the vineyards while encouraging the vines to draw moisture from the soil.

The resulting grapes were low in yield and smaller in size, but packed with flavor. That year, Aitown produced enough grapes to craft five oak barrels of wine, culminating in a limited edition selection of Cabernet Sauvignon that she takes pride in. Furthermore, she chose to highlight the young clientele by creating a fruit-forward rosé wine from the Grenache grapes, pairing it beautifully with Asian cuisine.

Aitown candidly admits that managing the winery is even more demanding than her full-time internship while balancing academics. Most of her income as a winemaker and consultant goes back into the operation of the winery. Yet, how could there be a more fulfilling pursuit than realizing her dreams while exploring the exquisite world of fine wines?